Some chefs and environmentalists who have taken part in "Take a pass on Chilean sea bass," the campaign launched in 2001, are worried. They are concerned that with the MSC approval the general public will now assume that all Chilean sea bass, from outlets other than Whole Foods, has become sustainable once again.

But another more widely available fish is perhaps the more necessary subject for scrutiny. Salmon described as "Organically Farmed" might not be all it's cracked up to be.

Consumers guided by their conscience when shopping are reassured by the description that this, like organically farmed livestock and fowl, must be a more humane way to raise fish and healthier for us to eat than conventionally "farmed" fish.

The distinction, however, between "farmed" salmon and "farmed organic" salmon is far less clear when you look at how each type is raised.

Cages for conventionally farmed salmon can hold up to 70,000 fish. In organically farmed fish, the figure is cut by half. But they still spend their lives in a cage, hardly a replica of life in the wild. At least pasture-raised cows are free to roam a field.

Fish captive in such high numbers, farmed conventionally or organically, are a magnet to parasitic sea lice, which can then disperse to wild fish. And farmed fish have escaped their enclosures to breed with wild stocks.

Salmon farming practices can leave river waters tainted with fish feces and uneaten fish feed. That fish feed, incidentally, comes most commonly from the innards, heads, tails and blood of fish that has been cleaned for us to prepare for dinner. The MSC is looking to certify fish waste for fish feeding by 2010.

Even in organic fish farming, vitamins and minerals can be added to fishes' diet, and medicines and chemicals administered in limited amounts to protect stocks.

It's no wonder that true believers in the protection of supplies of wild fish censor farmed fish of any sort from their shopping lists.

Stocks of wild fish need monitoring and protecting. Time was when salmon, sturgeon and oysters were so prolific they were despised by the rich as fodder for the poor.

We want cheap fish. But we shouldn't allow fish farming practices to provide it by methods or in quantities that can put fish in the wild at risk. Fish farming practices that may be a threat to wild stocks should be moved to contained areas to segregate them from natural sea and river fish.

If you want salmon, look for MSC certified wild salmon from Alaska. Consider it a special treat -- it is one.

This recipe from Jamie Oliver's "The Naked Chef" shows off good salmon exceptionally well.

Salmon Fillet Wrapped in Prosciutto with Herby Lentils, Spinach and Yogurt

-- Serves 4

-- 9 ounces lentils

-- 4 8-ounce salmon fillets, skinned and pin-boned

-- Salt and freshly ground black pepper

-- 8 slices of prosciutto

-- 4 tablespoons olive oil

-- juice of 1 lemon

-- 2 good handfuls mixed herbs (flat-leaf parsley, basil, and mint), chopped

-- 3 large handfuls spinach, chopped

-- 7 ounces plain yogurt, lightly seasoned with salt and pepper

-- Preheat the oven to 425 F.

-- Put the lentils into a pan, cover with water, bring to a boil and simmer until tender.

-- Season the salmon fillets with a little pepper before wrapping them in the prosciutto slices, leaving some of the flesh exposed.

-- Drizzle with olive oil and roast in the oven for around 10 minutes until the prosciutto is golden. Feel free to cook the salmon for less time if pinker is to your liking.

-- Drain away most of the water from the lentils and season carefully with salt, pepper, the lemon juice and olive oil.

-- Just before serving, stir the herbs and spinach into the lentils on a high heat, until wilted.

-- Place on plates with the salmon and finish with a drizzle of lightly seasoned yogurt.

Related Links
Marine Stewardship Council
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