Earth Science News
FARM NEWS
White truffles, Italy's gold, menaced by climate change
White truffles, Italy's gold, menaced by climate change
By Brigitte HAGEMANN
Alba, Italy (AFP) Nov 11, 2024

Deep in a thick forest in Italy's northwestern Piedmont region, the hunt is on for the white Alba truffle, with excited dogs zigzagging and digging into the wet earth.

But the culinary treasure is becoming increasingly rare, undermined by climate change.

"Go find it! Where is it?" Carlo Marenda, a part-time truffle hunter, calls out to Gigi and Buk, seven month- and 13-year-old crosses between the Spinone Italiano and Lagotto Romagnolo breeds, prized for their keen sense of smell.

Autumn leaves crunch under the weight of boots sinking into muddy soil. Below a picturesque hillside vineyard not far from Alba, trails wind along the Rio della Fava, crossing damp ground ideal for growing truffles.

Sought after by gourmets and starred chefs around the globe, the white truffle of Alba, the most prestigious in the world, is an underground fungus growing in symbiosis with certain hardwood trees by attaching itself to their roots.

Its intense and refined scent, a mixture of hay, garlic and honey, allows hunting dogs to detect it, even if the truffle is sometimes buried up to a metre deep.

Introduced to truffle hunting at the age of five by a family friend, Carlo Marenda, 42, founded the "Save the Truffle" association in 2015, alongside Edmondo Bonelli, a researcher in natural sciences.

It was an octogenarian "trifulau" loner, Giuseppe Giamesio, known as "Notu" and the last descendant of a family with a century-old truffle tradition, who revealed his secrets to him and bequeathed his dogs just before his death in 2014.

The master's message was a testament: "If we want to prevent the disappearance of the truffle, we must protect the forests, stop polluting the waterways and plant new 'truffle' trees".

Ten years later, thanks to donations and the support of some winegrowers, the association has planted more than 700 such trees in the hilly Langhe area, including poplars, oaks and lindens.

- Notu's legacy -

"Notu passed on to me his passion for truffle hunting and tree preservation," said Marenda, emerging from his metallic grey Fiat Panda 4X4, the preferred car of truffle hunters.

In the last three decades, the areas dedicated to white truffles in Italy have dropped by 30 percent, gradually giving way to more profitable vineyards, but also hazelnut groves.

The Langhe hills provide a large quantity of hazelnuts to the chocolate giant Ferrero, which was founded in 1946 in Alba, a small prosperous town of 30,000 inhabitants.

But the main threat to the white truffle, whose harvest was classified as an intangible heritage of humanity by UNESCO in 2021, is climate change.

Global warming, drought, deforestation and sudden temperature changes are all factors weakening the natural habitat of this fungus.

To survive, the truffle needs cold and humidity. At the beginning of November, however, the temperature was at 20 degrees Celsius (68 degrees Fahrenheit).

"With the prolongation of summer weather, production is definitely falling", he lamented.

- Soaring prices -

The harvest, running from October to the end of January, is getting shorter. And with the delayed cold and snow to arrive, "the aroma of the truffles is not yet 100 percent and they don't keep as long", Marenda said.

Abundant rain, as seen in recent weeks, can also be harmful, he said.

"If there is too little water, the truffle does not grow. If there is too much, it rots."

Alerted by Buk, Marenda crouched down to the ground to delicately scratch the earth with a narrow spade, extracting a truffle, albeit rather modest in size.

On whether the white truffle is on the brink of extinction, experts say it isn't too late.

"Not yet. But if we don't act, it could become so," said Mario Aprile, president of the Piedmont truffle hunters' association.

"The white truffle cannot be cultivated, unlike the black one. Without trees, there are no truffles. We plant them to rebuild biodiversity," Aprile said.

Faced with limited supply and booming demand, the white truffle is trading at a high price, reaching 4,500 euros per kilo this year at the International Alba White Truffle Fair which ends December 8.

Two "twin" white truffles, bound to the same root and dug up by Aprile, were the stars of the annual world charity auction for white truffles in Alba Sunday.

Weighing a total of 905 grams (2 lbs), the fungi were sold for 140,000 euros ($150,000) to a Hong Kong finance tycoon.

bh/ams/ju

CORPORACION FINANCIERA ALBA

Fiat Chrysler Automobiles

Related Links
Farming Today - Suppliers and Technology

Subscribe Free To Our Daily Newsletters
Tweet

RELATED CONTENT
The following news reports may link to other Space Media Network websites.
FARM NEWS
Scientists harvest nutrient-rich rice grown in space
Sydney, Australia (SPX) Nov 11, 2024
At a crop breeding center in Shanghai, researchers have successfully harvested rice that was cultivated from seeds initially grown on China's space station Tiangong, also known as "Heavenly Palace." The rice plants have completed a full growth cycle on Earth, maturing after more than 100 days since planting. This space-to-ground experiment began with six rice seeds sent into orbit in 2022 on the Wentian spacecraft. Taikonauts onboard Tiangong bred these seeds into 59, which they returned to Earth. ... read more

FARM NEWS
Climate crisis worsening already 'hellish' refugee situation: UN

Spain PM accused of 'blackmail' by tying budget to flood aid; Royals return to flood zone

COP29: Climate disaster fund for poor countries 'ready'

Fukushima nuclear debris arrives at lab after secret journey

FARM NEWS
New AI microbiome tool offers breakthroughs in forensics and epidemiology

NASA to transform in-space manufacturing with laser beam welding collaboration

Startup turns mining waste into critical metals for the U.S.

A smart screen for cooling and sun protection

FARM NEWS
Drinking water outage hits half of France's Mayotte

Will living by the sea remain viable?

US hopes river pact with Mexico will reduce water scarcity

Curtin and NASA unlock ocean secrets from space

FARM NEWS
Measurements from Lost Seaglider reveal impact of warm ocean water on Antarctic ice

Deep ocean study offers new insights into ancient ice age shift

Was Snowball Earth truly a global event? new study provides strongest evidence yet

First Antarctic amber discovery opens new window to ancient climate

FARM NEWS
Economic woes sour prospects for China's dairy farmers

White truffles, Italy's gold, menaced by climate change

More than 33 million Nigerians face hunger next year: report

Scientists harvest nutrient-rich rice grown in space

FARM NEWS
Schools shut as flood-hit Spain braces for more torrential rain

Fifth storm in under a month bears down on Philippines

Airlines around Asia ground Bali flights after volcano erupts

Evacuations, call for aid as Typhoon Usagi approaches Philippines

FARM NEWS
What Trump's re-election could mean for Africa

Senegal grapples with floods, economy ahead of parliamentary elections

Mali detains CEO of gold mining firm Resolute

Burkina army launches probe after mutilation video leak

FARM NEWS
Location of ancient ochre mine found in Eswatini

Chimpanzees show improved performance on difficult computer tasks with an audience

New findings on Denisovans reveal their role in shaping early human genetics

Human culture's distinctiveness lies in its open-ended nature

Subscribe Free To Our Daily Newsletters




The content herein, unless otherwise known to be public domain, are Copyright 1995-2024 - Space Media Network. All websites are published in Australia and are solely subject to Australian law and governed by Fair Use principals for news reporting and research purposes. AFP, UPI and IANS news wire stories are copyright Agence France-Presse, United Press International and Indo-Asia News Service. ESA news reports are copyright European Space Agency. All NASA sourced material is public domain. Additional copyrights may apply in whole or part to other bona fide parties. All articles labeled "by Staff Writers" include reports supplied to Space Media Network by industry news wires, PR agencies, corporate press officers and the like. Such articles are individually curated and edited by Space Media Network staff on the basis of the report's information value to our industry and professional readership. Advertising does not imply endorsement, agreement or approval of any opinions, statements or information provided by Space Media Network on any Web page published or hosted by Space Media Network. General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR) Statement Our advertisers use various cookies and the like to deliver the best ad banner available at one time. All network advertising suppliers have GDPR policies (Legitimate Interest) that conform with EU regulations for data collection. By using our websites you consent to cookie based advertising. If you do not agree with this then you must stop using the websites from May 25, 2018. Privacy Statement. Additional information can be found here at About Us.